Peter Strickland’s frigid, Freudian fever dream looks at fetishism and consumerism with a killer sense of style.
Peter Strickland sure loves fetishes.
Let’s be clear, though: Fetishism need not be sexual. The term was first used to describe the belief that objects held supernatural abilities and, depending on use or purpose, could help people. Maybe they could assert power; maybe they could simulate a touch sans physical contact. Extrapolate this a bit more and you get the eroticism we now ascribe the word. But where exactly is the line between the erotic and everything else? In In Fabric, it all blends together: the sensual and the sparse, the sparse and the spooky, the spooky and the solitary.
Such is the life of Sheila (Marianne Jean-Baptiste), a recently divorced woman living with her art-snob son, Vince (Jaygann Ayeh). As she puts personal ads in the singles’ section of the paper, he wraps himself around the finger of his Bettie Page-esque girlfriend, Gwen (Gwendoline Christie). A squishy, synthy score from Cavern of Anti-Matter matches the onscreen barrages of catalogue photos and television ads, and when Sheila finally secures a date, she’s onto the next step. Time to buy a new dress.
Welcome to Dentley and Soper’s, where the changing rooms are called “The Transformation Sphere” and the mannequins welcome customers legs akimbo. Sheila tries on an “artery red” gown, and while she’s unsure at first, one Miss Luckmoore (Fatma Mohamed) soothes her worries with a heavy accent that calms the nerves like a warm shot of embalming fluid. Out is the misophonia of Sheila’s home life. In comes a textured, ASMR-adjacent sense of peace. Oh, but just one thing: This dress is haunted, and it’s homicidal.
But never mind that. With the dress comes a newfound identity, one that sellers put on so buyers will give in. Suffice it to say that some truly bizarre stuff goes on in the store’s catacombs, but beyond the Giallo aesthetics and keen blend of sight and sound comes something much deeper. In Fabric isn’t just a satire on consumerism (although it is that as well). It’s a look at sexuality, gender, and the power that clothes have over us. Does that sound kind of funny? That’s because it is. It’s hilarious, even.
By skating the lines of amorality, reality, and dream logic, In Fabric explores its Freudian themes without necessarily endorsing them. A lot of it has to do with Strickland’s grip on his scope; as he introduces us to a new character, he indulges in their myopias, assigning others to the periphery until each successive arc grows more and more immediate. That dream logic? Those Lynchian interiors? That instant gratification that most people want during the holiday rush? They all get tighter until they fold in like a collapsing star.
The ways that In Fabric compounds and contradicts fears, infatuations, impulses, and the feminine against the masculine lead to a larger grey area—a hypnagogia of reaping, ravishing, ruining, and recycling.
There’s no doubt that there are more than a few shifts that will alienate viewers, not all of them narrative. Therein lies the unpredictability. The ways that In Fabric compounds and contradicts fears, infatuations, impulses, and the feminine against the masculine lead to a larger grey area—a hypnagogia of reaping, ravishing, ruining, and recycling. It’s when Strickland treats his characters as a conveyor belt of insecurities that he really shows its cynicism. It’s also when he shows a bit more of his sympathies.
It almost never gets in the way of its entertainment value, however. He’s crafted a devilish comedy here, what with his attention to dialogue that can bang the doldrums or rasp the mind as it so pleases. The performances, ranging from campy to deadpan, also point to a growing irascibility. Combine this with how Mátyás Fekete blends montages with much more languid moments and the film finds its flow. A few scenes in its second half aren’t as tight as they could have been, but the abandon with which Strickland goes for it all cannot be denied.
Some will dismiss the film as 118 minutes of hogwash. Some will immediately fall under its spell. Some won’t be entirely convinced, but just give it time. Like Miss Luckmoore observes early on, “The hesitation in your voice… soon to be an echo in the recesses of the spheres of retail.” Slink into its silk and the rest will take care of itself.
In Fabric wafts its way through select cities this Friday, December 6 before hitting VOD on December 10.
In Fabric Trailer:
Read next: The Spool's Best New Releases
Streaming guides
The Best Live TV Streaming Services With Free Trial
The praises of live TV streaming services don’t need to be further sung. By now, we all know that compared to clunky, commitment-heavy cable, live TV is cheaper and much easier to manage. But just in case you’re still on the fence about jumping over to the other side, or if you’re just unhappy with ... The Best Live TV Streaming Services With Free Trial
How to Watch Power Book III: Raising Kanan Season 3
Season 3 of the hotly anticipated Power spin-off, Power Book III: Raising Kanan, is arriving on Starz soon, so you know what that means: it’s the ’90s again in The Southside, and we’re back with the Thomas family as they navigate the ins and outs of the criminal underworld they’re helping build. Mekai Curtis is ... How to Watch Power Book III: Raising Kanan Season 3
How to Watch Doctor Who: 60th Anniversary Specials
Ladies and gentlemen, we’re so back! To celebrate Doctor Who’s 60th anniversary, the BBC is producing a three-episode special starring none other than the Tenth/Fourteenth Doctor himself, David Tennant. And to the supreme delight of fans (that would be me, dear reader), the Doctor will be joined by old-time companion Donna Noble (Catherine Tate) and ... How to Watch Doctor Who: 60th Anniversary Specials
Which Netflix Country Has Each Movie of The Hunger Games?
For whatever reason, The Hunger Games series isn’t available in the same countries around the world. You’ll find the first and second (aka the best) installments in Hong Kong, for instance, but not the third and fourth. It’s a frustrating dilemma, especially if you don’t even have a single entry in your region, which is ... Which Netflix Country Has Each Movie of The Hunger Games?
How to watch Lost Cities Revealed with Albert Lin Season 2
After a years-long hiatus, scientist and explorer Albert Lin is coming back to National Geographic with a fresh new season of Lost Cities, renamed “Lost Cities Revealed.” In the past, Lin, who is probably the closest we’ll ever get to a real-life Indiana Jones, has traveled everywhere from the ancient Knights Templar in Israel to ... How to watch Lost Cities Revealed with Albert Lin Season 2
How to Watch Paramount Network With a Free Trial
To date, Paramount Network has only two original shows on air right now: Yellowstone and Bar Rescue. The network seems to have its hands full with on-demand streaming service Paramount+, which is constantly stacked with a fresh supply of new shows. But Yellowstone and Bar Rescue are so sturdy and expansive that the network doesn’t ... How to Watch Paramount Network With a Free Trial
How to Watch FX With a Free Trial
You’d be hard-pressed to find a bad show airing on FX. The channel has made a name for itself as a bastion of high-brow TV, along with HBO and AMC. It’s produced shows like Atlanta, Fargo, The Americans, Archer, and more recently, Shogun. But because it’s owned by Disney, it still airs several blockbusters in ... How to Watch FX With a Free Trial
How to Watch A&E With A Free Trial
If you’re a fan of true crime and insider docu-shows like The First 48 and Court Cam, then you’re probably already familiar with A&E. The cable channel is home to other reality TV gems like Hoarders, Duck Dynasty, and Storage Wars (they’ve moved on to spin-offs like Road Wars, Customer Wars, and Prison Wars now). ... How to Watch A&E With A Free Trial
How to Watch WE TV With a Free Trial
Previously “Women’s Entertainment,” We TV has since rebranded to accurately reflect its name and be a more inclusive lifestyle channel. It’s home to addictive reality gems like Bold and Bougie, Bridezillas, Marriage Boot Camp, and The Untold Stories of Hip Hop. And when it’s not airing original titles, it has on syndicated shows like 9-1-1, ... How to Watch WE TV With a Free Trial
How to Watch Unimás With a Free Trial
As the sister channel of the much bigger Univision, Unimás is home to popular Spanish-language telenovelas and talk shows (yes, including El Gordo y La Flaca), as well as a couple of sports events and programs. Most notably, however, Unimás also operates a couple of station affiliates around the country, so it also reports local ... How to Watch Unimás With a Free Trial
How to Watch TNT With A Free Trial
For many sports fans, TNT is a non-negotiable. It broadcasts NBA, MLB, NHL, college basketball, and All Elite Wrestling matches. And, as a bonus, it also has reruns of shows like Supernatural, Charmed, and NCIS, as well as films like The Avengers, Dune, and Justice League. But while TNT used to be a cable staple, ... How to Watch TNT With A Free Trial